E-Type Heater Pipe Replacement
Several people have asked recently how to install the heater transfer pipes that fit inside the bulkhead. I just finished doing this job a few minutes ago so I thought I would relate my experience.
Note: This was on a 1970 Series 2 car. Series 1 cars and RHD cars may not need these modifications.
The stainless steel pipe kit costs about $105 USD. John Farrell also stocks these and I believe his listed price is $105. I believe he is the actual manufacturer of these, regardless of who you actually buy them form.
It's easier to do this installation if the dash and wiring and other stuff is not in the way. My interior is completely bare so this was the first stage in re-assembling everything. You at least need the center hole in the dash clear to be able to maneuver the pipes into the dash.
A note on the replacement kit. It will be nearly impossible to install the long lower pipe without some modifications. This is because the original mild steel pipe had very sharp bends on the ends, to the point that the tubing is actually wrinkled. The new pipe has smooth bends of the smallest possible radius without kinking. This radius is slightly larger than the original pipes. As a result, the pipe will interfere with the smaller diameter vacuum pipe which is not part of the kit.
Also, because of the larger radius bends, you will have to make a small modification of the hole on the left side of the bulkhead. You will need to make the bottom of the hole slightly oval, about 3/32 of an inch, in order for the pipe to be able to turn and slide through the hole. It will be covered by the "D" washer. Also, the long pipe itself will need a gentle bend downwards in the middle, about 1/4 of an inch, to clear the vacuum pipe where it goes through the bulkhead near the center. Be sure to note which way both the lower pipe and the vacuum pipes fit. Because of the "D" washers on the ends, they only go one way. Before you bend anything, make sure you have them turned the right way!
Next, the vacuum pipe will need a slight bend down about 6 inches from the right end. The bend will only offset the end about 1/2 inch. You will probably have to redrill two of the pop rivet holes in the right side of the bulkhead as the existing holes will not quite line up because of the offset. Again, the "D" washer covers it so it's no big deal.
Note: There are two sets of holes for the vacuum pipe, the lower set is used in LHD cars. For RHD cars which use the upper set, the two pipes will clear fine and you will not need the slight bends in either one.
Start by fishing the long, lower pipe into the center hole towards the left. Keep it high so that it slides into the opening near the top, inside the bulkhead. This is necessary to get it far enough left to drop past the sheet metal bracket in the center of the bulkhead. Drop it all the way down and fit it through the holes. Place the "D" washers on the outside and put one pop rivet in each end.
Then fish the vacuum pipe in the same way. It drops down to fit just above the lower pipe in the middle and all the way down on the right side. Again, put the "D" washers on and one rivet in each end.
Next, take the pipe with no "D" washer on one end and fish it in all the way to the left. The "D" washer end fits through the hole near the heater opening and the non "D" washer end fits through the hole in the bulkhead next to another hole for a "D" washer. This is the end that the spacer, "O" ring, and water valve fits on.
Finally, fit the pipe with the two "D" washer ends and the "V" bend. This pipe is bent to go over the sheet metal bracket in the center of the bulkhead. Again, fit the "D" washers and one Pop rivet at each end.
Once you are satisfied that everything looks good, install the rest of the pop rivets. This whole procedure should take you about 45 minutes if your dash is completely disassembled like mine. If you're using the stainless pipes, this should be the only time you ever need deal with this!
A note on pop rivets: The rivets that come with the kit are apparently stainless steel. Many of the rivets originally used on my car were aluminum. Using aluminum rivets to hold two pieces of steel together is a bad thing. A little bit of moisture and you have a minute battery and the rivets start to corrode. Many of the riveted parts on my car came off with only the slightest persuasion. Thank goodness nothing structural was pop riveted together! Use steel pop rivets when re-installing steel parts. It will probably be OK to use aluminum rivets for fastening the aluminum data and identification plates back to the car.
Also, a standard pop rivet tool will not be able to seat the rivets. You either need one with a long-skinny nose, or just make a small spacer about 3/8ths of an inch long (a small piece of 3/16ths inch brake tubing works great!) to slip on the stem of the rivets before putting them in the tool. This will allow you to work close to the protruding pipe ends but still seat the rivets flush.
If you decide to paint the "D" washers black for a more correct concours look, be sure to use a self-etching primer first. Because these are stainless steel, paint without an etching primer will fall off shortly. (Remember the DeLoren?)
George Cohn
'70 OTS
gwcohn@simplybits.net
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