Gas Tank Removal

This is the procedure for removing and replacing the gas tank on my Series 2 OTS. It may apply to other series and body styles.
A common cause of fuel odors and leakage is the vent hoses or filler coupling. Also, when the drains seem clogged on the boot lid, it may be because the hoses have kinked or "perished". The fuel tank must be removed or moved over for access to any of these hoses.
Practice shop safety in using this procedure as gasoline vapor is very dangerous! There may be risk of fire, explosion, respiratory distress or death. Keep a charged, working fire extinguisher nearby. The reader assumes all responsibility for using this procedure.

  1. Remove the wooden floorboards.
  2. Remove the three corner bolts and rubber pads.
  3. Remove the saddle bracket in the front, right corner. This bracket is held by four nuts and star washers on the IRS side of the bulkhead. The bolts are tack welded to the bracket so they will not turn. You CANNOT move the tank without taking this bracket out.
  4. Remove the boot lid latch mechanism from the rear, right. It is held on with small screws.
  5. Remove the Chenney hose clamps from the filler coupling and slide the coupling up onto the filler neck. A little light lubricant like WD-40 will help.
  6. Remove the sump housing from below. Note: You must drain the tank first or you will find yourself awash in "petrol". Not a good thing!
  7. Remove the fuel coupling and pickup plate from the top of the tank. You must remove this as the pickup tube extends below the tank into the sump.
  8. You can now start sliding the tank to the right to gain access to the clamps and vent hoses.
  9. The tank can be lifted out by carefully maneuvering it.
The hoses must be replaced with a type specifically made for fuel. Do not use regular water or vacuum hose as the fuel will soon cause it to disintegrate.

While you have the tank out, you may wish to detail or even paint the tank area. It was originally painted the same color as the body. The tank should also be inspected and painted if necessary. It is a semi-gloss black commonly known as OEM chassis black. Most auto paint stores should carry this.

You may also want to "slosh" the inside of the tank with a cleaner and sealer, especially if you find signs of rust. This rust is often caused by not keeping the tank "topped off", allowing condensation to form. Some tank sloshing kits also contain a length of chain that you drop in the tank and slosh around to help remove the rust.

Be sure to get the kind of sloshing compound that is resistive to alcohol as most modern fuels contain alcohol blends in the winter to help control pollution. The older slosh compound was not alcohol resistive and will dissolve in the fuel causing no end of clogging problems.

If you find that the tank has holes or even areas that need patching, either replace it or take it to a shop that specializes in welding fuel tanks. It is very dangerous to weld or braze a fuel tank! Specialty shops have the proper equipment to purge the tank of fuel vapors and many will fill it with an inert gas while welding or brazing.

As much as I hate this expression, installation is the reverse of removal. Use new a new gasket for the filler plate and gauge sender if you removed that one as well.

The clear fuel line used is also a special fuel resistive type. Most auto stores no longer carry it but it is available from some of the suppliers such as XK's Unlimited, Welshes, etc. for around $2 USD per foot. After 20 years or so, it needs replacing! The copper sealing washers on the banjo fitting should also be replaced. They are also available from the above sources.

RETURN to Menu